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  • Writer's picturePat Browne

INNOAESTHETICS launches a specific product line to stop breakouts and improve acne-prone skin

Updated: Apr 18, 2023

Acne is not only one of the most disturbing skin conditions, unfortunately, it is also one of the most challenging to treat.

IT IS ESTIMATED THAT ACNE AFFECTS AROUND 9.4% OF THE TOTAL POPULATION WORLDWIDE.


Digging Deeper

Acne physical effects can be divided into two stages: (1) breakouts while acne is active, and (2) subsequent post-acne scars that can be permanent. When treating acne, the main goals of the professional are controlling the breakouts and preventing scarring. Therefore, it is always better to treat acne before it becomes severe, and cysts appear.


How Does Acne Occur?

Acne is one of the most common skin pathologies. It usually begins in puberty, along with hormonal changes. It can also affect adults, especially women. The human body is covered with fine hair, except for the palms of the hands and feet. Acne pimples (comedones) appear when hair follicles get clogged by excess of sebum, keratin and death skin cells. This alteration is characterized by having a multi-factorial etiology and by affecting skin zones with a high number of sebaceous glands such as the face, chest, and upper back. Acne breakouts form comedones, papules, or pustules. These lesions need to be controlled, or they can cause permanent scars and lead to social and psychological problems.


Acne occurs because the skin’s pores become clogged with dead cells and oil that facilitate colonization (infection) by bacteria (Propionibacterium acnes), resulting in an area of inflammation and redness.

TYPES OF ACNE

MILD ACNE

  • Blackheads or Open Comedones:

Open pores clogged with oil and dead skin cells. They look like small black spots. Are generally easy to treat.

  • Whiteheads or Closed Comedones:

Closed pores clogged with oil and dead skin cells. They look like small white bumps. Are generally easy to treat.


MODERATE INFLAMMATORY ACNE

  • Papules and Pustules:

The clogged pore develops bacteria and mild inflammation occurs. Papules are reddish and pustules have a yellowish aspect as they have pus inside. It is better to treat them before the infection goes deeper.


SEVERE ACNE

  • Nodules and Cysts:

They appear when the infection in the pores goes deep into the skin. They are the most inflamed and severe type of acne. It is important to treat them as the risk of post-acne scars is high.

TRIGGERING EVENTS/ACTIVITIES

Knowing which factors trigger acne breakouts can help us to prevent them.


HORMONES:

Ok, you cannot really prevent this one, but it explains why acne is more frequent in puberty. If acne mostly affects teenagers, it’s because they are going through hormonal changes such as fluctuations of estrogen and progesterone, among others. However, adults can also suffer hormonal acne that can be triggered by pregnancy, menopause, or excessive production of cortisol (the stress hormone).


SKIN TYPE:

Oily skin types are, for obvious reasons, more prone to suffer acne, the more sebum you produce the more risk for your pores to get clogged. Cleansing your skin daily with the appropriate cleanser and using non-comedogenic products is a must for oily skin types.


COMEDOGENIC PRODUCTS:

Certain ingredients, contained in many skin care products, and non-tested oils are considered comedogenic as they increase the chance of clogged pores. It does not mean that no one should use them, they can be right for other types of skin, but if you are acne prone you should use non-comedogenic cosmetics.


POLLUTION:

As dirty substances can promote pore clogging, if you are acne prone you should cleanse your skin daily and avoid touching your skin as much as possible as our fingertips can pollute our skin.


MEDICATIONS:

Certain medications (Especially hormonal medications, such as corticoids, contraceptives, anabolic steroids, or testosterone.)


INNOAESTHETICS AKN PROTOCOL: THE PROFESSIONAL SOLUTION FOR ACNE-PRONE SKIN


INNOAESTHETICS Laboratory has developed a protocol for acne treatment that combines in-office professional treatments and at-home products that can be used alone or combined.

Besides the aesthetic consequences of acne and the potential self-esteem problems that this condition may cause, inflammatory acne can leave permanent scars if not kept under control on time.

  • In-office transdermal formula (professional recommendation: 4 treatment sessions at 7-day intervals)

  • Regulates sebum production, bacteria proliferation, reduces pore clogging and inflammation, and breakouts.

  • Strengthens the skin barrier restoring skin structure.

COMPOSITION:

  • Pyruvic Acid

  • Meliloto Officinalis

  • Pyruvic Acid

  • Zinc

  • Niacinamide

  • Peptide Complex

Pyruvic Acid It is an alpha-keto acid with keratolytic, antimicrobial, and anti-seborrheic properties, that also promotes the formation of collagen and elastin fibers. Thins out hyperkeratinized stratum corneum and controls sebaceous secretion.


Melilotus Officinalis It has anti-inflammatory effects as it reduces the activation of surrounding phagocytes thanks to its antioxidant properties. It suppresses the production of superoxide in the leukocytes and selectively inhibits cytochrome P450 and cytotoxicity in the tissues.


Zinc The effectiveness of zinc in treating acne vulgaris was recognized in 1970 for the first time. The effects of zinc on acne-prone skins are:

  • Promotes immune activity and wound healing.

  • Regulates inflammation by inhibition IL-6 and TNF-a production.

  • Inhibits inflammatory mediators’ production, such as nitric oxide.

  • Prevents P. acnes proliferation.

  • Inhibits 5a-reductase by blocking the conversion of testosterone into dihydrotesterone (DHT) and suppressing sebaceous glands activity.

Niacinamide Significantly reduces sebum excretion and interleukin secretion. Moreover, it reduces TEWL, thus improving the skin barrier condition.


Peptide Complex (Dipeptide-3, Tetrapeptide-30) They reinforce the immune system of the skin, stimulating the first line of defence, and reduce inflammation.


  • Deep cleansing cream-gel for oily/acne prone skin​​.

  • Use it morning and night.

  • Purifying serum that regulates sebum secretion and prevents acne breakouts​​.

  • Apply daily to clean dry skin.

  • Restore skin moisture balance and regulates sebum secretions.

  • Apply over serum​​.

COMPOSITION:

  • Mandelic Acid

  • Acido Salicilico

  • Proline

  • Taurine

  • Niacinamide

  • Glycyrrhetinic Acid

  • Zinc Gluconate

  • Smart GPS®

Mandelic Acid It is an Alpha Hydroxy Acid with sebum-regulating and anti-bacterial properties. It prevents skin imperfections, attenuates pores and improves the appearance of acne marks. Moreover, it favors cell turnover and stimulates collagen synthesis, reducing the signs of aging. It does not make the skin more sensitive to sun damage; hence it can be used during the daytime.


Salicylic Acid It is a Beta Hydroxy Acid with keratolytic, anti-microbial, and sebum-regulating properties that act deep into the pores to avoid their clogging. It has anti-irritating and anti-inflammatory effects that prevent acne breakouts and marks. Besides, it improves the skin’s appearance.

Proline and Taurine Combination of amino acids that stimulate structural protein production, such as collagen and elastin. It regenerates and revitalizes the skin, also maintaining skin hydration.

Niacinamide It is an active form of niacin (Vitamin B3) with anti-inflammatory properties. It prevents the formation of papules and pustules, reduces the size of pores, and regulates sebum production. It enhances skin luminosity, evens the skin tone, and prevents oxidative stress.

Glycyrrhetinic Acid Triterpenoid found in licorice extract. It has anti-inflammatory properties by inhibiting the 5-lipoxygenase enzyme. It has antioxidant and anti-microbial effects. Therefore, it protects the skin from oxidative stress and prevents acne lesions.

Zinc Gluconate Zinc salt with antiseptic, astringent, and anti-inflammatory properties. It reduces 5α reductase and DTH formation, regulating sebum overproduction. Hence, it prevents blemishes and improves skin condition..

  • Restores skin texture and regulates sebum secretion​​.

  • Apply every night for 2-3 months.

COMPOSITION:

  • Mandelic Acid

  • Niacinamide

  • Azeloglycine

  • Salicylic Acid

  • Mimosa Tenuiflora Extract

  • Smart GPS®

Mandelic Acid Alpha Hydroxy Acids are recognized ingredients to treat acne as they induce the exfoliation of hydrophilic areas. Among them, Mandelic Acid is one of the most commonly used for mild and moderate acne. It has keratolytic, anti-inflammatory, and comedolytic effects and penetrates the epidermis slowly and homogenously. It unclogs the follicles and exfoliates the stratum corneum.

Niacinamide Provides potent anti-inflammatory properties with no risk of bacterial resistance nor systemic adverse effects. It is an effective ingredient for the treatment of acne vulgaris. Nicotinamide is a precursor of Nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD) and its phosphorylated form, NADP. It also acts as a substrate for the nuclear enzyme poly-ADP-ribose polymerase PARP-1, which is in charge of repairing the damage induced by genotoxic stress, such as UV radiation. Draelos ZD et al. proved that 2% of topical nicotinamide resultant in a significant reduction of sebum excretion in a Japanese study group and decreased casual sebum levels (sebum on the skin surface) in another study performed on a Caucasian group and that lasted 4 weeks. This ingredient has also proven to help protect the skin barrier from infection and can have a bacteriostatic effect against P. acnes. Finally, nicotinamide reduces in vitro secretion of interleukine-8, which is a cytokine segregated by keratinocytes in response to pathogen agents (including P. acnes). Therefore, it has anti-inflammatory effects through leukocyte chemotaxis inhibition.

Azeloglycine Studies performed on volunteers to determine the efficacy of this ingredient have proven its sebum-regulating, antimicrobial, and moisturizing effects that it has on the skin, as well as its potential to enhance skin elasticity.

Salicylic Acid This acid is commonly used in dermatology. It has proven to be safe and well-tolerated. It softens the stratum corneum and rapidly dissolves the desmosomes, which leads to a reduction of corneocyte adhesion and exfoliation. Its anti-inflammatory properties are very beneficial for the treatment of acne.

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Mimosa Tenuiflora Extract HIt has antiseptic and anti-inflammatory properties. The bark of this plant is rich in saponins, lipids, steroids, glucosides, tannins, alkaloids, lupeol, methoxychalcones, kukulkan, and several polysaccharides. Polysaccharides have tonifying, anti-inflammatory, astringent, and antiseptic effects when applied on skin and can stimulate collagen production.

Smart GPS® (Guidance Performance System) is an exclusive technology registered by INNOAESTHETICS.


References for full protocol available through Nugen-Rx.


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